20.05.2016

We left the bustle of the city behind and set off again on the tandem. Although we didn’t see all there is to see in Budapest, we felt ready to be on the road again.

We knew our fellow traveller, Beno ( who is cycling to China) was setting out today as well, but we set off before him.  Having left Budapest we got a little muddled by the signs for Euro Route 6 in a small town further on. Having a mini detour whilst we worked out how to get back on the route, we saw Beno just about to make the same mistake as us. We called out and we cycled together for an hour or so on our route.

We stopped to enjoy a beer and a cold drink in a small village further on whilst Beno ordered food for his lunch we continued on our way.

Much of the journey today was along quite bumpy roads and tracks alongside fields planted with maize.

We caught occasional glimpses of a side river from the main Duna…. attractive views with what appeared to be weekend cottages dotted along the banks. We passed lots of little fishing platforms on the banks, occasionally with contemplative fisherman with rods waiting for their catch; it must be a popular fishing area.

Having done some 50 miles we came to a point where the sign for route EV6 went down a grassy path. We decided against this and went round on the main road, but this was quite busy with fast traffic and we were glad to get off it again!

 

We were able to find a decent surfaced cycle path and quieter roads to reach our stop for the night in a tiny village called Aposteg. Rather appropriately the village has a set of statues which are the 12 disciples on the village green…..

Nerd’s Corner

Budapest to Aposteg : 62 miles

Total distance travelled so far : 1690 miles

18/5/16 and 19/5/16

Budapest is a really interesting city and so we decided to stay three nights with an Airbnb host, allowing us a couple of days to explore.

Making use of walking guides and tourist buses we discovered the successive waves of invasions, wars and migrations that have influenced not only the capital city, but also the Hungarian  nation.

The city has a definate European feel to it with a mostly baroque character, with quite a lot of buildings that managed to survive the “liberation” of the city by the Soviet army from the Nazis at the end of World War 2.

Apparently around 60% of the city was flattened in the bombardment, with some parts reaching 80% where the Germany army had set up their stronghold. Some of the buildings have been faithfully  reconstructed leaving a sometimes strange juxtoposition of severe Soviet architecture right next door to some older beautiful buildings.

Whilst we were here we also took advantage of the biggest of several thermal baths that have been built in different parts of the city, including a Turkish style bath that shows its origins from the Ottoman invasion. The Széchenyi Baths were built in an art deco style with a number of pools of varying temperatures and naturally occuring chemical compositions.

During our stay we also learnt that Hungary was established by the Magyars, who originally came from Central Asia – who later were then invaded by the Mongols, led by Genghis Khan….. who then were succeeded by the Ottomans from Turkey, then the Austrians, then the Nazis and finally the Soviets.

The Hungarian language has its roots in China, rather than Roman, Celtic, Scandinavian influences – even though Finnish has some similarities because of movements from Hungary hundreds of years ago. It makes the language quite unique with few recognisable words from other European languages.

17.05.2016

Since we had planned a short day’s ride to explore a little we had a bit of a wander around Szentendre, an attractive town with evidence of lots of arts and crafts people.

Just out of the town we discovered there is an open air museum which showed a large collection of houses and buildings dating from 15th to early 20th century which had been collected from different regions of Hungary and rebuilt in natural groupings around the vast site.

Having left our bags in the office of the pension where we had been staying we peddled the 5km up there – we were pleased to find when we arrived that we could use the tandem to cycle round the extensive outdoor site.

There was much to see and the few hours we had barely did it justice. It was fascinating to see the varying building styles from across Hungary…..

We also discovered the influences and migrations that have happened over the years, including one of the forced deportation of German speaking peoples after the second world war.

One of the guides we spoke to was from the former Yugoslavia and lamented the breakup of that diverse nation into 5 separate nations within the EU – Serbia, Croatia, Macedonia, Bosnia-Herzogovenia and Slovenia.

Another short ride and we were in Budapest. We found our Airbnb accommodation and to our surprise the young German man, Benno, we met a few weeks back in southern Germany, on his way to China, is staying in the same place. Sometimes it is a small world!

Nerd’s Corner

Szentendre to Budapest: 18 miles (!)

Total travelled to date: 1628 miles.

16.05.2016

The day started with a quick trip back to Slovakia, as it was a bank holiday in Hungary and all the shops were shut. Glad the Schengen agreement makes it easy to nip across national borders!

Food sorted, and having breakfasted, we visited the Esztergom Bascilica.  It has a very impressive marble interior and is built on a huge scale on the site of previous churches dating back to 1000 AD. The current structure was built in the 19th century and is the centre of the Roman Catholic faith in Hungary. Indeed, Esztergom was the capital of Hungary until the Mongul invasion of 1249 when the Royal Court moved to Buda, which is now part of the modern capital Budapest.

Amongst the various parts of the Basilica we visited there was a Treasury room where we saw beautiful, intricately shaped gold work chalices and mitres and heavily embroidered cerimonial robes.

There was also access to the dome, high above the town with extensive views up and down the river and surrounding countryside.

The ride to Szentendre was mostly on dedicated cycle paths beside the river, which over this stage performs several tight curves between high hills on either side.

The banks had trees sweeping down to the waters edge and views of the hills beyond were tree clad with red tiled roof tops, like toblerone triangles nestling amongst the trees.

Many buildings we passed were quite run down, but this balcony with all the geraniums caught Diana’s eye.

Our route meant we crossed the river using two ferries, which, unlike their couterparts in Austria ran at set times, so one had to judge arrival times to have enough time to have lunch or not have too long a wait. Fortunately one of the e-books we have been using to show us the way gave accurate timings!

 

Arriving on the south bank after the second ferry ride, we passed people selling local honey, cherries, strawberries and flowers by the roadside, locally grown by smallholders they were ridiculously cheap. A half kilo of fresh cherries for 400 HuF – around €1.30.

 

 

 

 

 

We arrived at Szentendre to find our “Panzo” situated right on the Duna….. We had a bit of a wander through cobbled streets and around the attractive town which clearly is the place where lots of artists and craftspeople live.

We discovered there are lots of serbian connections here, as a result of zserbians taking refuge here between the 17th  and 19th centuries escaping from the advancing Turkish invasion. They brought with them parts of their heritage including their cuisine and the Oryhodox churches

 

Nerd ‘s Corner

Esztergom to Szentendre: 35 miles

Total distance travelled so far: 1610 miles

15.05.3016

A quick search on the internet informed us the was a fort and some hot springs in Komàrno. So before we headed over the Duna for Hungary, we found the baths.

Happily on a Sunday morning they were open and what a treat. An indoor pool of lusciously hot water. Then an covered out door pool with bubble jets and shower jets. In one of our tumbles yesterday Simon bruised his shoulder, so the hot water and massage jets were just right to sooth the ache.

We then peddled round to the fort, but is was not open and unfortunately there was little to see from the outside.

So it was off to the bridge and over to Hungary, changing some Euros into Florints on the way; thousands of Florints, it is about 400 Florints to the English pound, 300 to the Euro.

Today’s ride was all beside roads, the first part being quite industrial, so it was a bit boring.

Eventually the factories gave way to attractive countryside.

As we approached Esztergom we could see the dome of the basilica rising above the trees. It was refreshing to see a skyline not cluttered with modern buildings and this historic dome dominated the view.

Again we had a shortish ride, so arrived in time to have a look around.

Nerds Corner

Komarno to Esztergom : 36 miles.

Total distance covered : 1575 miles.